Tag Archives: Europe

Sintra, Evora & Lagos, Portugal


Sintra and Evora are both UNESCO World Heritage listed towns outside of Lisbon. 
Sintra is to the North-East of Lisbon and Evora is to the West of Lisbon. Lagos is a beachy tourist town on the south coast.

Sintra

Sintra is an absolutely enchanting little town on the hillside, hidden gems all over the place! I loved my visit here and the single full day I had to explore simply was not enough time.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira is the property of an eccentric the house itself was quite beautiful but the highlight of the visit is the gardens.

The gardens are extensive with winding paths and hidden underground tunnels taking you between towers, a church, a waterfall and different wells.

Many years ago I saw a photo of the Initiation Well and I was simply captivated by its rustic beauty, so to see this first hand was absolutely the highlight of my visit to Sintra.

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Pena Palace

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPena Palace was the palace of the last king of Portugal. The palace architecture is pretty ‘out there’, there are loads of very bright colours, various different textures and patterns. While it seems to be a clash of concepts, it works really well and is spectacular to see.

The inside of the palace is also fascinating and every room has something different, painted walls, elaborate timber carvings, colourful tiled walls and ceilings. Simply spectacular!

Beyond these two sights, we had no time to visit other things in Sintra, but wandering the streets as the sun dropped in the sky was lovely. The cobblestone laneways were charming to explore.

Entry costs about €14.

Sintra photos on Flickr

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEvora

Evora is a gorgeous little walled city with absolutely tiny narrow streets, some of which take a three or five point turn to make it around the corner without damaging the car. Evora was one of those places that was gorgeous to wander, but otherwise only had a few sights to visit.

The things I saw which I thought were worth seeing were the aqueduct, it was really cute to see people had built houses and shops into the old archways. The roman temple is a famous site, but I am not particularly sure why. The cathedral is lovely and costs 3,50€ to visit the cathedral, cloisters and tower. The tower had a lovely view of the city. The church of San Francisco and it’s neighbour the chapel of bones are also fascinating to check out.

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Evora photos on Flickr

P1060669Lagos

Lagos is a super touristy town on the south coast of Portugal. It has gorgeous beaches and dramatic cliffs. The centre of town is a walled city like Evora and again has crazy narrow cobblestone streets.

It’s a great place to wander, to spend time relaxing on the beach, but otherwise the one sight that I would say is a must is a boat tour of the grottos.

The cliffs and grottos are spectacular from the water. I did a tour with Days of Adventure. For 10€, the 1.5 hour tour was  money well spent!!

Lagos photos on Flickr

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Lisbon, Portugal

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALisbon, Lisboa, is the capital city of Portugal.
What do I think about it? I LOVE IT!!!
This was my second visit to Lisbon and I loved it even more the second time around.

The narrow cobblestone streets, hilly terrain and super cute homes that are tiled and painted bright colours are all just amazing. It’s such a fabulous city to get lost in, just wander at random and you come across so many amazing things. Some of the main areas to wander around include the Praça do Comércio, Arco da Rua Augusta, Rua da Augusta,  Praça Dom Pedro IV, Praça do Figuera, along the Avenida da Liberdade and up to the park overlooking the city. 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFor getting around the city I highly recommend walking and getting lost in the various laneways and suburbs. Bairro Alto, Baixa, Chiado and Alfama,  are all great for exploring.

However my hot tip relating to public transport is to go to a metro station and buy a day pass for 6,50€, it’s valid for 24hours from the first use. It’s well worth the money and covers all types of public transport: metro, bus, tram, funicular and elevator. Some of the tourist highlights include tram, funicular and elevator – so I highly recommend this day pass!

Lisbon City Highlights

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAElevador da Santa Justa

At the end of Rua de Santa Justa is a charming old elevator which used to be used as a form of public transport to get people up the steep hill. Now it is a popular tourist spot because from the top of the elevator you can continue up by a set of stairs to a viewing platform that provides a brilliant view of the city.

The cost is about 5€ but if you buy the metro day pass the cost of the elevator is already covered and you only have to pay an additional 1,50€ to get access to the viewing platform. 

Sao Jorges Castelo

St Georges castle is on a hill in the Alfama district. It costs €8.50 to get in. Despite it not being an amazing castle, I still think it’s worth the visit, you can explore the grounds and walk along the castles walls and towers. It also provides a pretty awesome view of the city.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASé Catedral

The cathedral is a short walk from St Georges castle. It has free entry and is a beautiful church to visit.

It has a mix of architectural styles, construction began in 1147 and the building has since undergone many changes, reconstructions and renovations over time, sometimes due to earthquake damage.

Santo Domingo Catedral

A random find of ours was Santo Domingo Cathedral. Again as a cathedral it has free entry. On walking through the doors my jaw dropped!

The cathedral was seriously damaged by two earthquakes and a fire. While it has been partially renovated the damage is clear to see and it makes the cathedral so much more beautiful!

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A Ginjinha

In the small plaza just outside the Santo Domingo cathedral is a tiny hole in the wall shop/bar. Here you can buy a small taster cup of the local Portuguese liqueur, Ginja. It is a sour cherry liqueur and tastes quite nice. A little taster costs 1,40€.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATram 28

Vintage Tram 28 is very popular for tourists, and the queue to get on was pretty crazy. it starts at Praça do Figuera and ends somewhere random. If you ride it to the end, you need to get off and then back on five metres up the road in order to make the return trip. One way from start to finish is about 40minutes.

Despite its popularity I thought it was loads of fun. It winds its way through the narrow streets, bumping and jolting along. There are some cool sights to see from the tram and some of the stops are at popular tourist sights, such as St Georges Castle, Sé Catedral and Praça do Comércio.

I’m not sure of the cost, as I used my metro day pass.

Belem

Belem is just outside central Lisbon and is easily accessible by tram, we took tram 15E from Praça do Figuera and it took about 30mins.

Tower of Belem

The tower of Belem juts out into the river. It was originally built as a defence fortress to defend Lisbon’s harbour. The architecture of the tower is gorgeous and there is so much detail in all the carvings. Definitely worth a visit.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJeronimos Monastery and Church

Jeronimo’s Monastery is an absolute must-see. the architecture is phenomenal and it is just such gorgeous white stone set against beautiful blue skies.

A combo ticket for the tower of Belem and Jeronimo’s Monastery cost around 12€.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos 

By the waterside, this is a monument that was inaugurated in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of Henry the Navigator’s death. It shows Henry and other famous explorers. You can climb to the top of the monument, but I am unsure of the cost as I decided I wasn’t interested after having climbed the Tower of Belem.

Pasteis de Belem

Pasteis de Belem is a famous patisserie that serves the traditional Portuguese egg tart pastry, Pastel de Nata. If you are willing to wait in the queue (which actually moves pretty fast) then I would recommend stopping by to grab one of these tasty treats.

Accomodation

My friend and I rented an Airbnb apartment on Rua Dom Pedro V and it was brilliantly located, just a short walk to the centre of town.

Check out all my photos on Flickr

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Hollandse Biesbosch & Utrecht

Hollandse Biesbosch

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Hollandse Biesbosch is a national park and large freshwater tidal area. It is kind of like a forest but with loads of meadows and canals. It’s just across the river from where my family lives in Sliedrecht. I made two visits to the biesbosch.

The first visit was by boat with some of my cousins, Rob, Roel and Irene. We entered the biesbosch area by passing through a lock. then the boys navigated us through some of the canal systems, being sure to point out where my dad used to take them camping when they were little. On our way out of the area we stopped at a canal-side pub for a drink and a snack.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMy second visit to the biesbosch was with my aunt, Marjan. We took our bikes on the waterbus to cross from Sliedrecht to the Biesbosch. We had intended to go and visit the Grindmuseumpad which is a 6 kilometer walk through a specific section of the biesbosch. It was an area where my dad used to work. Unfortunately, that area is closed one day of the week, and that happened to be the day we were there. So instead we walked another route, enjoying the fresh air, warm weather and the country side. After our stroll and photo taking excursion, we cycled back to Sliedrecht over the railway bridge and then along the dijk. Despite not getting to see the Grindmuseumpad, we still had a fabulous afternoon.

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Utrecht

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUtrecht is a very popular city in the province of Utrecht, an hour north-east by train from Sliedrecht. It is a beautiful old city famous for the canals, most of which have two tiers, so you can actually sit by the water and have a coffee or head up to the higher level for some shopping.

Utrecht is often referred to as being a student city, though I am not sure I saw much evidence of this. I was headed to Utrecht for a conference, but managed a half day of sightseeing prior to the conference starting.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI had a great time just wandering along all the cobblestone streets. The two main sights I visited were the Dom Church and the Dom Tower. Originally they were one building but due to a major earthquake the section joining the two parts was destroyed and they are now two separate entities. They are both gorgeous, but my favourite by far was the tower. Entry to the church is by donation and you can come and go as you please. Entry to the tower is by guided tour only. Be sure to turn up within a reasonable time frame as it is a very popular tour and is often booked out. The cost was 9 euros, and absolutely worth the money!

Check out all my photos on Flickr

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Waterlinie, The Netherlands

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA large portion of the Netherlands is below sea level and the land has been reclaimed so that it is inhabitable. The Dutch have very innovative (in my opinion) canal systems, dijks and locks for managing the water. In war time, between 1815-1940 there was a section referred to as the Waterlinie (Water Line) which runs from North to South, and was able to be flooded at will as a defence mechanism, blocking enemies attempting to invade from the east.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAlong the Waterlinie forts, bunkers and castles were built. I spent a half day visiting a tiny portion of the Waterlinie with my cousin Quinty and her partner Adriaan. We started off at Fort Altena. Then visited the adorable little town of Woudrichem and ended with a visit to the castle, Slot Loevenstein.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn all of these places you can find the most adorable old architecture, it is well worth taking the time to wander around all of these sites. If the weather is good, it could be fun to pack a picnic, as there are many waterside spots to sit and relax. If you aren’t the picnicking type, then all of these sites have fantastic cafes and restaurants to stop for food and/or drink. We certainly enjoyed a beer in the sun outside Slot Loevenstein.
If you have the time, I would also suggest exploring additional sites along the Waterlinie.

Check out all my pics on Flickr!

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Eurail Discounts!!

Get 20% off on all Global and Select passes!!

The promotion has just started so jump on it before December 31st!

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In case you aren’t sure what Eurail is, it’s a European train ticket. You can buy them to allow you train access for a specific country, group of countries or a global pass that allows you to access the 28 countries that accept the Eurail pass. Compared to buying a ticket per ride, this rail pass is AWESOME!

9105864456_cc57530083_zWay back when I had my second gap year, in my early 20’s, I bought myself a two month unlimited Eurail global pass. So for two months I train-ed my way around Europe and I saw so many amazing things that I would otherwise not have had the opportunity to see.

Departing from The Netherlands, where I was living at the time, I started by heading north to Denmark, Sweden and Norway. Then I headed south and a bit east travelling through Germany, the Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary.  I finished by heading further south, but this time west to Italy, France, Spain and Portugal. I then had to get myself back to The Netherlands as quickly as possible before my rail pass expired.

The Eurail pass that I had saved me a lot of money on buying separate flights, train or bus tickets. In some places the rail pass also allowed you to use the local subway system; and there are sometimes other discounts you can get with your Eurail pass, such as on hotel accommodation and museum tickets etc. Occasionally I also saved money on accommodation by taking overnight trains to my next destination.

The Eurail prices are generally fairly expensive, though I would say they are still worth the money. But with this discount, it has never been such a great idea!!

Make sure you check if the train you want to catch requires a reservation, in many cases the reservation has no additional cost, but in some cases it does.

Get a Eurail pass now!!! Or at least find out more about them…

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Walking tours in Rotterdam

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERARotterdam is an interesting city, it got almost completely destroyed in the second world war through bombing (the city that lost it’s heart) and as a result is the most architecturally modern city in the Netherlands. It is a place that visited often, but only ever to shop; and despite my interest in architecture, I had never really bothered to look at the city, so it was about time to change that!

One way I really enjoy getting to know a city is through free walking tours. There are many cities that offer free walking tours, always offered by people who genuinely love their city and work for tips.

Surprisingly and disappointingly, it wasn’t so easy to find a free walking tour in Rotterdam in 2015, at the time of writing this post.

As Rotterdam has started to gain more tourist appeal, the walking tour options have improved, and inspired a revamp/rewrite of this post. My knowledge and interest of the city has also grown since I recently became a Rotterdam resident.

Rotterdam Free Walking Tour

On Saturday June 17th, 2017 Tim, Vincent and Hans started Free Walking Tour Rotterdam. Eager to see what the guys had to offer and coinciding with a visit from friends I went on their first tour.

Rotterdam Old Harbour

Tim and Vincent did a fantastic job of showing the city sights, explaining the city’s history and sharing with us what makes the city tick.

Since I now live in Rotterdam I can vouch for the fact that the tour hits all the highlights including my personal favourites: the Market hall, Cube houses, Old Harbour and the White House.

At this stage Free Walking Tours Rotterdam only operate on Saturdays at 1:30pm from the Market hall. Due to popularity they are investigating increasing the frequency of the tours.

A range of walking tour options

Ani & Haakien hostel have a broad range of free walking tours on offer within Rotterdam, as well as a few offerings for paid tours further afield (If I hadn’t already been – the tour to the UNESCO heritage listed Kinderdijk would be pretty high on priority list!).

I enjoyed the architectural walking tour of the city, which runs on Saturdays at 11am. The tour covers the history of the city’s architecture, the architectural styles over time and the city’s programs for renovations. The focus of the tour was definitely the older architecture, pre and post war, but with little attention paid to newer architectural structures such as the new Market hall.

The added bonus – you do not need to be a hostel guest to access their tours and the staff I spoke to were awesome, friendly and helpful! (If I had a need to stay in Rotterdam, I would definitely book a bed in this hostel)

Self Guided Walking Tours

If, like I was, you are stuck with the problem of not being in Rotterdam the day that a particular tour is offered then the next best option is a self guided walking tour – which is obviously free.

For this I have two recommendations. For architecture and the general sights of Rotterdam I would recommend the app from Rotterdam Tourist Information. If you prefer to check out street art then the Rewriters App is fabulous. (they do also offer a paid street art tour on the weekends when enough people are interested).

My self-guided street art tour

Cartoonised city sights of Rotterdam by Last PlakWith a keen interest in street art and the knowledge that Rotterdam had numerous hidden gems, I was pretty excited to hit the streets of Rotterdam. The best option I found was an app called Rewriters. The app costs a dollar but provides a fantastic interactive map through Rotterdam to a great number of interesting works of art from a variety of artists. The app contains audio and text to explain a bit about the artist of each piece, as well as some information about the piece itself.

I really had a fantastic time checking out all the art works, I was impressed by the quality of the work and range of styles and pieces visited on the route. It was also a great way for me to get to know my new city better.

The app offers two complete walking routes, one within central Rotterdam and the other in Capelle aan den Ijssel – this one is still on my ‘To Do’ list.

Note: Ani & Haakien offer a Graffiti and Bar Tour on Friday nights at 9pm. I was interested in checking out the street art in the middle of winter, so wasn’t prepared to walk for 1.5 hours in the dark and cold. Now that we have long daylight hours in Summer, I have already seen the majority of the art and as a result have not done this tour myself.

My self-guided architectural walking tour

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe app is really well designed and walks you from place to place, with pictures, maps, descriptions and audio. I went with my cousin Roel and his friend Sjoerd (they are both still students and require good english for their studies and future careers, so the outing was partly english practice for them and partly about seeing the city).

The tour has 46 places of interest to visit, but we had limited time and were easily distracted by shops, food and drinks, so only managed to visit about 9 of them.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe tour starts at the tourist information office on the Coolsingel of Rotterdam, a short walk from Rotterdam Blaak train station. From there it heads across to the Maritime museum, though I am not sure why. The third stop was the Museum of Rotterdam, which was a gorgeous old building. The only seventeenth century building in the city center that was left standing after the war.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAContinuing on was another old building, St Laurens Church, which was the only surviving late-gothic building from the original medieval city of Rotterdam. It was badly damaged in the war, but has since been restored.

Just a block or so from the cathedral the style of architecture is a drastic change, and switches from classic to extremely modern. The new markethall, the library, the pencil building and the cube houses are all very interesting designs.

Library, Cube Houses, Pencil Building & Blaak station
Library, Cube Houses, Pencil Building & Blaak station

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe markethall is the newest of these, having been opened in October 2014 (not even a year ago). It has an arch shape, through the arch are apartments, the two ends are capped with glass walls. Internally the center section is filled with market stalls, cafes and restaurants. The walls and ceiling of the hall are beautiful bright colours and are essentially an artwork representing the foods and flowers you might find in a market, as well as some depictions of neighbouring buildings, such as the Laurens Church. It’s a thoroughly fascinating piece of architecture, one that has drawn many people in the direction of Rotterdam, where previously Amsterdam was the big drawcard of the nation.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFrom this very modern area in the direction of the wharf, at least one older building can be found, The White House. The first Dutch “Skyscraper” standing a not so high 45 metres tall, with 11 storeys. It’s a gorgeous building by the water, but once again, provides such a contrast to the modern buildings nearby.

From here it is about a block to the river where you can see the iconic Erasmusbrug and Willemsbrug (bridges). These weren’t on the walking tour officially, but they were so close that I threw them in for my own interest. The last stop I made it to from the official list was the Red Apple building. It’s a very new building and has quite a large overhang. I noticed actually, that many of the modern buildings in Rotterdam has an overhanging component, which I find fascinating, not to mention and engineering wonder (that is, to me, who is not an engineer).

We finished up our afternoon with a beer in one of the many restaurants in the market hall. A fabulous end to an enjoyable afternoon!

Check out my pictures on Flickr!

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Some other tour options

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Franks Tours: Frank runs tours through Ani & Haakien, as well as independently. His city tour and graffiti tour both sound like they are worthy of investigation.

Urban Guides: Cost is between €17,50 – €25, tours take 2,5-3 hours and it is by bicycle – this one sounds pretty cool, but in September it only operates on the weekend and unfortunately my weekends are already all booked up.
Leijnse Stadtoers: Cost is €15, it takes 1,5 hours and is available on request.
Gilde Rotterdam: Cost is €5, it takes 1,5 to 2 hours and there is an agenda from which you can select a walk.
Rotterdam Roots: Cost is crazy expensive, tour lengths range from 1,5 to 4 hours.
City Walking Tours:  They offer a few tours, you need to call or email for bookings.

Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in December 2015, the walking tour options in Rotterdam have since greatly improved and this post has been revised and republished as a result. Happy Walking!

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The Netherlands

Schoolkaart_kleurSomething I have made no secret of, is the fact that I am dual citizen Dutch-Australian. My immediate family lives in Australia, but the remainder of my family lives in a small town in The Netherlands, called Sliedrecht. It is in the province of South Holland.

I find that when I visit the family I tend to stop blogging, because it is home to me. I have visited every 3 years since I was 3 months old and I don’t really see it as one of my adventures. However thinking about it, there’s no reason why I shouldn’t blog about it because it’s just as beautiful, interesting and history-rich as any other place I visit.

So, in addition to standard  home life, I have done a bit of sightseeing in my first week here. My cousin Roel and I made a day trip to The Hague, I visited the windmills of Kinderdijk and I went to a food truck festival in Dordrecht with a cousin and her family.

The Hague

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Hague (Den Haag) is in South Holland on the west coast of the country. It is the political capital of the nation, it’s where the government, the parliament and various homes of royal family members can be found. It is also where most foreign embassies can be found (I have personal experience with the Australian embassy, as a 16 year old I only had a Dutch passport and left Australia after my re-entry permit had expired. So I had to make a quick trip to the Aussie embassy to get a new permit so I could return home).

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Hague isn’t a city where I have spent much time, but it is a pretty cool place to visit. The city center has some fantastic architecture, some very important and historical buildings and a lovely atmosphere. An interesting art gallery in the city center that is worth visiting is Panorama Mesdag. The gallery was created simply to house the enormous 14m by 40m cylindrical panorama painting. Even for someone who isn’t into art, the idea of this massive cylindrical panorama is really cool, as a 16 year old at my last visit I can assure you I didn’t appreciate it as much as it is worthy of. Entry costs 10 euros.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANearby The Hague is a place called Madurodam where much of the Netherlands has been re-created in miniatures. I used to love going as a kid, but haven’t returned since I was 18. Entry costs 13,50 euros. If you have never been to Madurodam, then I highly recommend it, it provides a fantastic insight into the country, the culture and the history.

Also, just a 2km walk/cycle from the city center is one of The Netherlands’ more famous beaches, Scheveningen. When you tease people about trying to pronounce crazy words from a different language, we use this beaches name. In my recent visit to The Hague, we had planned to cycle to Scheveningen, but ran out of time.

With some of those facts aside, my cousin Roel and I made a half day visit to The Hague. I really enjoyed wandering around the old city, stopping for coffee and simply enjoying the atmosphere. The contrast of old and new architecture is thoroughly fascinating. Mostly you see old buildings and new buildings, but every now and then you see old and new combined in one. The old government buildings are simply gorgeous and it’s almost worth visiting just to see them. The city has a really good vibe, I’m surely I only saw the tiniest portion of what it has to offer. I would highly recommend a visit if you are in the country.

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Kinderdijk

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAKinderdijk is the name of a town several kilometres up the highway from Sliedrecht. With the use of my auntie’s car with built-in GPS it took about 15 minutes to drive there.

Kinderdijk is a UNESCO World Heritage listed site that is well known for the windmills. The area has 19 windmills dating from the 1500s. The windmills were originally created to control the water level in the region, which is now done by diesel pumps. One of the windmills is open to the public as a museum, but the remaining ones can only be viewed from outside.

The area is a beautiful spot to go for a stroll or cycle, you could probably even take a picnic lunch. I have been many times, but my most recent visit was when the windmills were lit up with flood lights at night time, which happens every year in the second week of September. I have seen many windmills in my life, but the night time perspective was simply stunning. For the event, entry was free, but during the day the entry fee is 7,50 euros.

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Food Truck Festival

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADordrecht (often referred to as Dordt) is another town in the South Holland Province, the town where I lived and worked when in both my gap years. It’s a few kilometres from my home town of Sliedrecht, but is a slightly bigger town.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn September 12th I went to Dordt with a cousin and her family to a Food Truck Festival called Eterij op Wielen (Food on wheels). While the weather was overcast and drizzly which possibly affected the number of people visiting, it was still a fantastic and pleasant afternoon.

We shared some foods between the three adults: poffertjes (tiny dutch pancakes), pulled pork rolls, pulled chicken wraps, vegetarian pasta, hamburgers and of course a selection of wine. A fantastic afternoon/evening out!

Check out all my photos on Flickr!

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Istanbul

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIstanbul is Turkey’s largest city with a population of 18 million people. It’s easy to gauge the sheer size of the city when trying to travel across it in a car. It takes forever to get even just a few blocks.

My hotel was in the old part of the city and this was absolutely the best place to be. It was just 10-15 minutes walk to any one of the important sites.

At first glance of the map, the old town of Istanbul looks very big and has a labyrinth of winding streets, but I actually found was that was very easy to navigate. On my second day in the city I already left my map at the hotel.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAByzantine Hippodrome

Back when Istanbul was known as Constantinople, during the Byzantine Period a Hippodrome was created in the centre of the city.

It is a U shape and is essentially a race track for horse and chariot racing. The Hippodrome has two obelisks in the centre line of it, one at each end. One is an Egyptian Obelisk called Obelisk of Thutmose III; the other is the Walled Obelisk built by an Emperor in the 10th century.

Sultanahmet Mosque

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMore commonly referred to as the Blue Mosque due to all the blue tiles used for the interior decoration. It is the only mosque with 6 minarets in Istanbul, and one of only 2 in Turkey. It is a 17th century Ottoman mosque, and is still in use. When visiting you are required to take off your shoes; women are required to wear a head covering and ensure that their shoulder and knees are covered too.

The mosque is simply stunning, there is so much detail in every aspect of the mosque. The ceilings in particular are amazing to see.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHagia Sofia

Hagia Sofia is a grand church that was completed in AD537. In 1453 the Ottomans took over the city, called Constantinople at the time, and converted the church to a mosque. In more recent history, 1935, Atatürk converted it to a museum and it is still undergoing renovation to uncover the original artworks.

 

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Basilica Cistern

The Basilica Cistern was built in the 6th century. It got its name because it was built underneath a basilica. The huge underground chamber is 9,800 m2 and is capable of holding 80,000 cubic metres of water.

History claims that 7000 slaves were used to build this cistern. Hundreds of these slaves died, and in tribute a column was built with teardrops on it.

The Basilica Cistern was one of my favourite places to visit. Under the bustling streets it has a feeling of calm. The water level is quite low but perfectly calm, the water reflecting the light shining on the many columns. It is simply gorgeous to visit.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGalata Tower

Galata tower was built in 528 to serve as a lighthouse and was originally constructed of wood. It wasn’t we rebuilt of stone in 1348. It currently houses a restaurant, and a viewing platform that provides stunning views of the city and the Bosphorus.

Beyoğlu

Beyoğlu is essentially the main street, particularly for shopping. It has a really old tram that runs up and down the length of the street up to Taksim Square. Apparently the tram ride is absolutely worth a ride, but I didn’t do it myself.

I spent a leisurely day walking up, and then back down the entire shopping street, enjoying some shopping along the way. Once I got to Taksim Square at the top of the hill I found a nice park to sit and enjoy a cup of tea.

Spice Market

The Spice Market, down towards the river area, was quite disappointing. There were many stores with beautiful displays selling wonderful smelling, colourful spices, natural teas and more types of Turkish delight than you thought existed. But there were just as many souvenir stores as there were tea and spice stores. Also they were stores in a big market hall, where I had anticipated more a market style set up. It is definitely worth a visit, but don’t expect it to be only spices and teas.

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Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is also a huge market hall with stores, only on a massive scale with many different winding paths throughout. I imagine it would be very easy to get lost in the labyrinth of paths.

There were of course a huge number of souvenir stores in the Grand Bazaar, as well as clothing and shoe stores.

One of the items I have seen many times and consider beautiful, though I would never buy any, are the glass mosaic hanging lamps. So many beautiful colours and patterns!

Food and Drink

Turkish tea, black tea and apple tea, is a popular drink. You will see many little cafés around town, you even see groups of policemen taking time out from their duties to sit and enjoy a cuppa.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATurkish Coffee is also very popular, but I would have to say that I am not a fan. It is very strong, in a very small cup and basically half of it is coffee grind sludge.

A food that I would highly recommend trying is the Testi Kebab. It’s a meat stew with tomato, capsicum and other bits and pieces. It is slow cooked for a few hours in a ceramic jar. Then when you are ready to eat, the last bit of the cooking is done near your table. A tray of salt is lit and in the flames the jar is rotated until it is ‘just right’. Then they turn it upside down and smash the base off the jar, before pouring the contents into a warmed tray to serve. It was so fun to watch and it was certainly one of the tastiest dishes I ate in my entire visit to Turkey.

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Cooking Class

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe did a cooking class in Istanbul, I always find it’s a good way to learn a bit more about the culture of a country. This class was run from the kitchen of the Arena Hotel, we had a hotel office staff member working as a translator and two chefs.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATogether we cooked the dishes for one meal (but the quantity for 10 people!). We started with Mercimek Corbasi which is a red lentil soup. The main dish that we made was Karnivak, Aubergines stuffed with a meat and tomato mix. This was served with rice and vermicelli noodles combined (most of the time you are served rice, it contains a second ingredient, like small pasta noodle or another type of grain). The side dish we prepared was Cacik which is a yoghurt, cucumber and mint dip. It was all delicious!!!!

Check out all my Istanbul photos on Flickr.

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Cappadocia

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Cappadocia is not a town, rather a large region somewhere in the middle of Turkey. The region is volcanic, though the last eruption was 5 million years ago. The many eruptions over time deposited layers of ash on the ground, which built up to become mountains. Over time the wind and rain has eroded these layered mountain of ash to create some amazing and interesting rock formations.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe one absolute must-do thing in Cappadocia is to go hot air ballooning over the valleys. It is phenomenal! There are two flight times each day. The first time is for sunrise (hotel pickup is at about 4am) and approximately 100 balloons are allowed to fly. The second flight of the day is still ridiculously early, hotel pickup around 5am, and approximately 85 balloons are allowed to fly. We had the second flight of the morning, the air was crisp but clear, and the view of all the balloons in the air as we waited for our balloon to be filled with air, was just breath taking.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur pilot Gülsah was one of only five female pilots of over 100 in the region, she took us low into the valleys as well as up to 6000 feet. She navigated us safely around mountains and avoided other balloons. It was so calming to be in the balloon, floating with the wind and taking in some of the most amazing views you could imagine. It’s another of those activities that is just so fantastic it is hard to put into words.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThroughout the region you can find many valleys, mountains, caves and fairy chimneys. Fairy chimneys are mostly found around the town of Göreme. They are typically tall thin rock formations that appear to have a hat on them, kind of mushroom like. In some places the chimneys aren’t singly single formations, but clustered. They say that it was unknown how the chimneys got their ‘hats’ and that it must have been fairy’s that made them, which is how they got the name Fairy Chimneys. The appearance of the hats or mushroom tops of the chimneys is more likely caused by wind erosion. The wind must blow tear through the valleys but only go up to a certain height, which I find odd and a little hard to believe, but it’s otherwise a little hard to imagine hot the chimneys got their tops. No matter what the cause, the fairy chimneys look very cool.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn Göreme is also an open air museum which shows many of the cave dwellings and churches. It’s a great spot to visit as you get to look at the constructions of the cave dwellings at close quarters. Get a feel for how they lived and you can even see a lot of original art works.

While the rock formations in Cappadocia are all natural, their conversion to caves is absolutely the result of humans. Some cave dwellings are still privately owned, if they aren’t in a national park people may even still live in them.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABack in the time of the Hittites, underground cities were created as places to hide from the enemies. Seeking refuge in an underground city was always a temporary option, but in some cases people lived in the cities for up to a year. The cities have many levels and an endless stream of tunnels. I was incredibly impressed to find a winery in one of the cities!!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe interrupted all our visits to rock formations with an evening show. We went to see the Whirling Dervishes. The Sufis whirl around in circles as a form of meditation, in which they feel a connection between their god and the earth. as they spin they reach their arms up, the right hand higher than the left and their head tilted to the right. The right hand is their connection to god and their left is their connection to earth. The whirling ceremony is led by a Sheikh and is made up of seven parts, including singing, bowing to each other, four sets of twirling and a reading from the Qu’ran. I found it quite an interesting ceremony to watch. If you come to Turkey, make sure you see a ceremony.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADuring our time in Cappadocia the weather was a bit up and down, we had some moments of brilliant sunshine and other moments of thunder and hail storms. We still got to see a great deal of the area, including visits to Uchisar Castle, the Rose Valley, Pigeon Valley and the Red Valley. At one point on a rainy afternoon, we also managed to fit in a wine tasting of some local wines. An absolute bonus and high point of our visit to Cappadocia was staying in a cave hotel (MDC Hotel) which was just amazing!

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Everywhere you look in Cappadocia there are amazing things to see. Anyone considering a trip to Turkey must make time to visit!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFor all my Cappadocia photos, check out the album on Flickr.

 

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Ephesus and Pamukkale

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATurkey is quite a big country within Europe, with a population close to 80 million. 18 million of whom live in Istanbul, which despite its popularity is not the capital of Turkey. Turkey is quite odd because it spans two different continents. 3% of Turkey is in Europe, a region referred to as Thrace and 97% is in Asia, referred to as Anatolia.

For me personally Turkey had three main destinations I wanted to visit: Istanbul, Pamukkale and Cappadocia. I will talk about Cappadocia and Istanbul in coming posts, but for now I would like to talk about the coastal town Kusadasi and its nearby highlights.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAKusadasi

Kusadasi is a major tourist port on the coast of the Aegean Sea. It regularly has multiple cruise ships in port. Because of this the town is incredibly touristy, very expensive and for me, it wasn’t that pleasant a place to be. The major draw card of Kusadasi is its proximity to some other places.

The House of the Virgin Mary

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn the 19th century a Roman Catholic nun, Blessed Anne Catherine Emmerich had visions of the house of the Virgin Mary, describing its location and its appearance. The visions were recorded author Clemens Brentano. Some time later a French priest discovered a house near the Aegean Sea that matched the exact description Mary’s house as recorded by Brentano. Despite the question of authenticity, many people make the pilgrimage to the house. Many people also take the water from the natural springs nearby to use as holy water, with the belief it has some spiritual and healing properties. There is also a wishing wall where people write their wish on a piece of paper and tie it to the wishing wall. It was quite an interesting site to visit, and it certainly has a great deal of history.

Ephesus

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANear to the House of the Virgin Mary is the ancient city of Ephesus. It was built around 6000BC and experienced many different regimes throughout its existence. When looking at the architecture and construction these regimes are visible. As an example, the red brickwork is from the Byzantine period; marble from the Roman period and grey stone from the Greek period.

I’m not the most knowledgeable on history, but I must say it was a very old site and while I might not have retained must of the history I was provided, I did find it a fascinating place.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe city was enormous and very spread out. I think that without deviating much from the main path, it was over a kilometer walking from one end to the other. There were two amphitheaters, the smaller one up the hill and the larger towards the bottom of the site. The larger one was used for bigger events, including gladiator and animal fights. Nearby this amphitheater was the gymnasium, where the gladiators trained in fitness, strength and fighting skills.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABased on the size of the amphitheater, and other factors I’m sure, archeologists have determined that the ancient city had a population of roughly 250,000. Of those 200,000 were locals and 50,000 were slaves. My two favourite structures in the city were the temple of Hadrian and the Library; they are both gorgeous structures and have lots of fine detail in the carvings.

Temple of Artemis

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe goddess Artemis was considered the goddess of fertility in Roman times. A temple was created and dedicated to her, the Temple of Artemis, which is one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

It was originally a grand structure with 127 columns, but now only one remains together with some small parts of the foundations.

Pamukkale

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe name Pamukkale translates to Cotton Castle. The region got this name because of the high volume of calcium carbonate in the water, which has created a white ‘castle’ on the hillside, with hot springs and travertines. The castle used to be pristine white, but due to its popularity many people used to visit, hotels were built on the site, people used to walk on the area and even ride motorbikes over the area. Thankfully UNESCO has since protected it and site access is fairly heavily restricted. If you want to walk down to the travertines and swim in the small pools you must walk barefoot.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe ancient city of Hierapolis was actually built on the hillside above the castle, and many opt to visit this city as well as the white castle. For me, the only thing that had my attention was the travertines. The white castle covers a large area and is approximately 2,700 metres long, 600 metres wide and 160 metres high. Of this, most of the travertines are dried up, but there is one very small portion that remains. Small, tiered, pristine white terraces containing vivid aqua-blue water that are just stunning to see. Battling the hordes of tourists was worth it to see this amazing natural wonder.

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Check out all my Ephesus and Pamukkale photos on Flickr.

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