Category Archives: Travel

South Africa, the Eastern side…

Leaving Botswana we descended into South Africa, passing through Polokwane. Making scenic stops at the Blyde River Canyon, heading down to Kruger National Park and ending in Johannesburg.

Blyde River Canyon

Bourke's Luck PotholesEntering into South Africa we stopped at three sights in the By;de River Canyon Region. The first stop was the The Rondavels, which are circular mountain and rock formations that look like the traditional circular huts made of dung and thatch, which are called Rondavels. Due to the mist the view wasn’t as spectacular as it could have been but it was still beautiful to see these mountains with a view over the valley and river.

The second stop was to view Bourke’s Luck Potholes. They are at a point in the river where the water flows down a small waterfall into the river below. At various points in the rock path, are some beautifully smooth, round potholes caused by the wind and water swirling through them. In addition to be ing fascinated by the shapes created, the colours and layers of sediment in the stone were beautiful to see.

God’s Window was the last sight we visited in the region, at the higher altitude we were in the clouds and unable to see the view. We did however enjoy a short rainforest walk and thoroughly appreciated the lush green vegetation and fresh mountain air.

Kruger National Park

The main highlight of our visit to Eastern South Africa was a visit to what I think is probably the most well known national park in Africa, Kruger National Park. We did a sunset game drive and a sunrise game drive.

White Rhinoceros

Sunset Game Drive

Late in the afternoon we met our driver Rick, climbed into his jeep and headed into the park. Rick was a really fun guide, who was very knowledgeable. He made the drive and information we learned fascinating and entertaining.

We saw loads of Impala, but that is to be expected since they are everywhere. We also saw Waterbuck, Hippopotamus, Buffalo, Zebra, Waterhog and my personal favourite in Kruger: White Rhinoceros.

BushbuckThe white rhinoceros earned its name, not from its colour, but from a mistranslation of wide mouth. The white rhinoceros is larger than the black rhino and it grazes grasses hence the wide mouth, rather than browse trees for leaves like the black rhino, who has a more narrow, hooked mouth.

We were ridiculously lucky to see a crash of white rhinos, at a distance we believe there to have been five of them: two bulls, two cows and a calf.

As the sun dropped in the sky we found a nice place to stop. Rick set up a little picnic table with nuts and popcorn to nibble or, as well as pouring us each a glass of Amarula liqueur to enjoy as the sun went down.

The Amarula liqueur is made from the fruit of the Marula tree. It is a sweet creamy liqueur which I would say is kind of comparable to Baileys Irish Cream. The Marula trees grow in various places around Africa, when the fruit is ripe it falls to the ground and ferments, at which time many drunk animals can be found stumbling around the national parks.

While we didn’t get drunk on our Amarula sundowners, we were in high spirits as we took off to see a few more animals before retiring for the evening. We managed to spot a Scrub Hare, Blue Duiker (the smallest antelope breed, which is unfortunately almost extinct), Nightjars (which are birds, part of the owl family) and some Kudu.

Sunset in Kruger National Park

Sunrise Game Drive

Hyena and pupWe woke up early, bundled ourselves up in layers of clothing and jumped into our jeep, with the first female driver we had, Nicky. I would love to claim that the female driver was the best game driver of all time, but unfortunately she was actually the worst driver we ever experienced. She took her own photos at each of the animal sightings and then gave us only a few brief moments to take ours before rushing off to the next thing. Also despite having paid extra for the game drive, we were returned to the camp earlier than the scheduled end time.

Despite having a terrible guide we did get to see loads of animals. We saw a number of Elephants, Hyenas with pups, a collution of Cheetahs, Buffalos, Klipspringers, more White Rhino’s, Lions, a Leopard, Hippos, Giraffes, Water Terrapins hanging out on a hippos back, Woolley Neck Storks, Bushbucks, Kudus and a Water Monitor.

Random animal facts…

ZebraMale elephants eat roughly 280kilograms of food per day, females 180Kg. The drink approximately 100 litres of water per day and their trunk contains 100,000 independent muscles.

Lions sleep for approximately 20 hours per day.

Cheetahs can accelerate from 0-96km/h in three seconds, but they need to catch their prey within 500 metres or they will overheat.
Also, a cheetah is the only big cat that doesn’t typically climb trees, due to the fact that it’s claws are not retractable.

A pack of hyenas is led by a female whose clitoris grows so big it looks like a penis. When she gives birth it tears out and then has to re-grow.

Rock Hyrax - known as a Dassie in South AfricaMale vervet monkeys have bright blue balls, the brightness of blue is an indicator of their virility.

Every zebra has its own set of stripes that identify it, like fingerprints.

The Rock Hyrax (or Dassie as it is known in South Africa) looks a bit like a rodent, but surprisingly it’s closest relative is the elephant.

Johannesburg

Soweto TowersWe arrived in Johannesburg in the late afternoon and said goodbye to our fabulous group of new friends, which is always sad.

The following day I met some friends to have a bit of a look around Soweto, visiting the Hector Pieterson Museum and Mandela House. I went out for lunch and a beer and checked out the street art, before heading to the airport for my flight to Cape Town.

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Okavango Delta, Botswana

Paddling Mokoro's through the DeltaThe Okavango Delta is a beautiful site that is UNESCO world heritage listed, which falls under the Moremi Game Reserve.

The delta receives water it’s  water from Angola, from the river Kavango. The river name changes to Okavango when it crosses into Botswana. Despite the close proximity of Angola to Botswana it takes three months for the water from Angola’s wet season to make it’s way into the Delta.

To get into the Delta some locals, polers, push a traditional Mokoro Canoe through the waterways amongst the reeds into the campsite. The guide of my canoe was Flora, who did a brilliant job. The polers are all people who are local to the area and who have been government trained to work in the industry to guide tourists as well as take care of the Delta.

GiraffeThe lead guide of the excursion was a really fun and knowledgeable guy called Galaxy; he led us for two game walks one sunset, one sunrise, and a sunrise mokoro paddle through the waterways. Due to the heat around Africa, the vast majority of animals sleep through the middle of the day and only become active in the early morning or late afternoon, so outings we did were at the cooler parts of the day.

It was great to spend two nights camping in the Delta, far from any electricity, shops or wifi. The group of local guides and polers who accompanied us made the trip so much fun. Their enthusiasm for the environment and their cheery disposition made a hot an uncomfortable environment an enjoyable place to be.

Swimming in the DeltaDespite having seen several National Parks already, it was nice to see the delta as the environment was quite different to the other places I had been. The wetlands were home to a huge variety of bird life, in the water we were also able to spot some crocodiles and plenty of hippopotamus.

In the dry areas of the delta I was a little disappointed with how little wildlife we saw, but it is called wildlife for a reason. We came across a herd of Zebra, Wildebeest, some Giraffes, and a lone Steenbok bouncing away from us in the long grass.

In the middle of the day, Galaxy sought out a nice quite waterhole that was free from crocodiles and hippopotamus, where we were able to cool off with a quick dip in the water. Despite my nervousness, it was loads of fun and quite the relief from the heat.

Sunset in the DeltaIn addition to seeing some animals in our walk, we learned that the delta has a wild sage growing that works really well as a mosquito repellent. We also learned that the uninhabited and inactive termite mounds are used by the locals to make bricks. The construction of a termite mound is very strong, like concrete. So once a mound has been deserted, the locals will break up the mound, crush the compound into a fine powder, mix it with water and create bricks to use in the house construction.

We spent the last night of our stay in the delta watching a singing and dancing performance by our local crew. It was such a privilege for me to enjoy such a personal performance that gave some insight into the local culture. We followed it up with a bit of a sing-along and some games.

The Okavango Delta Crew

Fives…

In discussions with Galaxy, we talked about the big five, and he went on to mention that there is also a small five, ugly five and pretty five.

Big Five

Elephant, Buffalo, Rhinoceros, Lion and Leopard.

Small Five

Elephant Shrew, Red-Billed Buffalo Weaver, Rhinoceros Beetle, Ant Lion and Leopard Tortoise.

Ugly Five

Blue Wildebeest, Warthog, Maribou Stork ,Baboon and Hyena.

Pretty Five

Lilac Breasted Roller, Giraffe, Zebra, Common Bee Eater and Pied Kingfisher.

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Chobe National Park, Botswana

Herd of Elephants walking by the Chobe RiverAfter saying goodbye to my Nomads tour group, and having a few days to enjoy Victoria Falls, I met my new tour family. I booked a tour from Vic Falls to Jo’Burg with On The Go tours, which was provided by ATC (African Tour Company). My new tour crew were guide Will, cook Mama Flo and driver Aaron.

Together with the crew and 12 new travel tour family members we set off for Botswana. The population of Botswana is just over 2 million and the most common language is Swana, though many people speak English.

Sable AntelopeThe Swana people are more reserved and shy than some other African people, but a smile with the greeting “Dumela” is a fantastic ice-breaker.

The first destination in Botswana was the Chobe River and National Park. The Chobe River is a natural border between Botswana & Namibia, alongside which the Chobe National Park can be found.

Chobe River SunsetThe Chobe National Park is around 11.7 square kilometres and has a very high concentration of elephants, most likely due to the year-round availability of water.

In a long afternoon I did both a game drive and sunset cruise in the national park. In addition to see loads of elephants, we saw some Chakma Baboons, Sable Antelope, African Giraffes, Impala, Kudu, Zebras, Crocodiles, Buffalo and a Tawny Eagle.

Visiting the Chobe National Park was a lovely introduction to Botswana.

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Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Helicopter view of Victoria FallsVictoria Falls is one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World. It is a huge, 108 metre waterfall of the Zambezi River, that straddles Zambia and Zimbabwe. I stayed on the Zimbabwe side.

It is a very busy place full of tourists from all over Africa and the whole world. It is also full of locals, touting their wares, which can be quite frustrating at times. One of the things the street sellers regularly approach you with is the Zimbabwean currency. Due to inflation the Zimbabwean currency lost all of it’s value. The money went into bank notes of billions and I believe, even trillions. Since losing its worth, the country switched it’s official currency to something stronger and more reliable, the US dollar. As a result, Zimbabwe, particularly Vic Falls, is quite expensive.

Victoria FallsThe town of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe side is really quite small and appears to just cater to tourists. Adventure activity booking agencies, souvenir shops and cafe’s line the streets of this tiny town.

I made several activity booking through Shearwater Adventures. I booked a triple package to get the bulk discount. My three activities were a helicopter flight, bungy jump and whitewater rafting for USD$385.

Bungy Jumping at Vic FallsThe Helicopter Flight was a 12-13 minute flight over Victoria Falls. It provided a phenomenal view of the falls, which gave perspective to the flow of the river from above and below. It also gave perspective to the massive size/breadth of the falls themselves. It was a short flight, but had fantastic views.

The Bungy Jump was over the Zambezi River, just outside of the Zimbabwe border crossing, but before the Zambian border crossing. You don’t have to pay an exit fee or worry about multiple entry visa’s to access the bridge, you just need to grab a gate pass (for free) at immigration. The Bungy is 111metres and was absolutely amazing! At the bottom, the spray of the waterfall formed two concentric circle rainbows, which was spectacular!! While it was fun, Bungy Jumping is something I have now done twice and I don’t really plan to do it again. I would highly recommend looking into doing the Gorge Swing at Vic Falls.


Whitewater rafting the mighty Zambezi RiverDue to the ridiculously high water levels, the whitewater rafting could only be done on the lower section of the river. Which for safety reasons, I am very happy with, but it would have been nice to do the upper section. We rafted from Rapid #14, the terminator, down to #24. The Terminator was the only Grade 5 rapid of the day and it was pretty epic!! Despite not having rapids as high a grade as I would have liked, it was still an absolute blast and I would highly recommend doing it.

Our group of raftersAfter all these full-on activities, I took things down a notch, and paid my USD$30 to enter the national park and actually just look at the falls, which are simply stunning! If you head to the falls during high water, make sure you take something protective for any electronics you are carrying, because you will get soaked from head to toe, through all layers of clothing.

Victoria Falls was a hive of activity and it is a place I thoroughly enjoyed visiting! It was also a place where I sadly said Goodbye to one altogether amazing tour group; but said Hello to a new tour group who I hope will be just as much fun!

 

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South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

Elephants hanging out in the shadeAfter Malawi, we headed to Zambia for a few days. We spent the majority of our time in the South Luangwa National Park. In addition to sown time relaxing in the campsite with a view of the river, we did a sunrise game drive and a sunset game drive.

On both occasions I was in the jeep with a driver called Ryver. His english was really good, he had a great sense of humour and was incredibly knowledgeable about the area.

Hippopotamus' hanging out in a lakeSouth Luangwa National Park is the park with the highest concentration of leopards. The time of year we visited wasn’t conducive to seeing all these leopards unfortunately, as the grasses were too high, providing too many hiding places for the stealthy cats.

GiraffesDespite our misfortune with leopards, we were certainly very fortunate with the other animals. We saw many Thorny croft giraffe (a breed of giraffe only found in Zambia); Nile crocodiles; a Hawk Eagle; Vervant monkeys (the males have bright blue balls, which is bizarre, but easy for identifying the type of monkey); Puku (a bigger breed of antelope that’s all brown); Impala; Hippos; Lions; Golden baboons; Elephants, Zebras, Hyenas and Vultures. We enjoyed a morning coffee beside a hippo pool!

One of the most fascinating, but disgusting parts of the game drive was seeing the carcass of an elephant that had been dead and picked at for five days. A pack of hyenas were taking turns picking at whatever parts of the elephant there was left to eat, while in the background the vultures patiently waited their turn. It was a very visible demonstration of both the circle of life and the food chain.

Pack of Hyenas eating a dead elephant

During our sunset drive we found ourselves amongst a large herd of elephants, there were mature adults with huge tusks all the way through the baby elephants only a few days or weeks old.

Sunset over the Luangwa RiverAs the sun lowered in the sky, we pulled up by the river to listen to the hippo’s, watch the crocodiles and drink a ‘sundowner’. After dark our spotlighter did a good job of finding animals for us to observe, including a pride of lions stalking a herd of Impala. The impala got spooked and ran before the lions got close enough. But we were able to follow the lions for some time afterwards.

Morrison stuck in the mudLeaving the camp the following day after a night of solid rainfall caused some issues with mud on the road and Morrison (the truck) was soon bogged into the embankment at a precarious angle. With some pushing, good humour, dancing, singing and the help of a truck we managed to get Morrison out of the ditch and on the road again.

Then we were on our way to Zimbabwe!

 

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Lake Malawi, Malawi

Lake MalawiMalawi is a fairly small country in south eastern Africa with a very high population. While it is a landlocked country, not bordering an oceans, it does border an enormous lake, Lake Malawi. Lake Malawi is half in Malawi and half in Mozambique.

Our tour group spent four nights in Malawi, mostly just relaxing by the lake side.

NB: Lake Malawi contains a parasite commonly known as Bilharzia. While you could potentially get the parasite from swimming anywhere in the lake, it is unlikely you would be at risk from swimming in many of the common regions. I recommend talking to your travel GP about the parasite before travelling, and then making your own decision about the safety of swimming.

Maji Zuwa

The local children love having their photo takenMaji Zuwa was our first lake side accommodation. It is run by an American who facilitates aid organisations to help build up the neighbouring community with education, health care and Women’s rights.

We were given a tour of the local village to see the schools, medical clinics and legal offices. The children in the schools were so excited, they all wanted hugs, high fives and to be photographed.

Livingstonia

The hiking crew at Manchewe Falls, LivingstoniaLivingstonia is a mountain-top town named after the famous explorer David Livingston. The mission in Livingstonia was built in 1884 by Dr Robert Laws. With the towns establishment by people from the United Kingdom, the architecture has a colonial style, which is quite fascinating to see in Africa amongst all the local and traditional style architecture.

A small group of us decided to attempt the hike from the tiny town of Chitimba to Livingstonia town. It was a hot, humid, sweaty, gruelling 11.5kilometres ascent. Three liters of water and three hours later we arrived close to the top at Manchewe Falls, where we stopped to eat our packed lunch and sit in the shade briefly. The falls cascade 125 metres down the mountainside and are really quite beautiful. Behind the falls is a track to a local cave, but visiting it would have added an additional 2 hours to our hike, so despite our curiosity, we decided not to see it.

A chameleonThirty minutes from the falls, we finally arrived in Livingstonia where we restocked our water supplies before enjoying looking at the old buildings and learning a little bit about the towns heritage. Walking along the road, we also found a small chameleon, which I thought was fabulous and enjoyed a ‘cuddle’.

After checking out the town, we paid for a ride down the mountain on the back of a pickup truck. The road down has 20 hairpin bends often on a cliff edge – quite the ride!!

Ngala Lodge

Ngala Lodge, Lake MalawiThe last night in Malawi was spent further south on Lake Malawi, at the beautiful beachside lodge, Ngala Lodge. The managers were really friendly and helpful and spent the evening chatting and drinking at the bar with us.

It was a very relaxing place to spend a night, we throughly enjoyed it and the use of the pool; we were sad our stay was so short.

 

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Mikumi National Park, Tanzania

Mikumi National Park

A Leopard walking down the highwayMikumi National Park is the fourth largest National Park in Tanzania. It is 3230 square kilometres and shares a border with one of the biggest game parks in Tanzania.

We did a half day game drive in the National Park with some local guides. Our group was spread across three jeeps, unfortunately only one of the drivers had reasonable English so we didn’t learn any new information about the park and the animals along the way. I will say though that I was happy enough with our non-english speaking driver, as it was a much safer jeep to be in than the one with no brakes!

WildebeestOn the drive into the game park we were all astounded to start our morning off with seeing a leopard strolling down the main highway. Unfortunately it had lost it’s tail, which I am sure affects it’s ability to climb trees, stalk and hunt. Despite this, it still looked quite healthy.

Once in the National Park we were all very interested to note that the vegetation was so much different to both the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, and in fact it was much nicer with a greater variety of landscape.

The park was gorgeous and once again luck was on our side. We saw: a Leopard; Lions; Giraffes; Elephants; Zebras; Impala; Hippos; Bushbucks; Buffalos; Wildebeest; Warthogs; Golden Baboons; and many other smaller animals and birds.

Bull Elephant

Baobab Valley

Hugging a Baobab TreeDeparting the Mikumi National Park on our way to Malawi, we stopped by Baobab Valley to take some photos.

The Baobab Tree is the funny looking tree in Africa (it can also be found in some other countries) that has a really wide trunk and looks kind of like a bottle with leaves on the top. There are nine species in the family and they all look a little bit different, but they all have the very wide trunk to store water in.

Traditionally the tree is viewed as sacred, it has many medicinal uses and when you hug the tree you can make a wish.

The tree’s look really cool and their bark feels lovely – I admit I hugged the tree longer than necessary, because it felt good and I had some very important wishes to make.

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Zanzibar, Tanzania

On the east coast of Tanzania is the city of Dar Es Salaam, Arabic for “a haven of peace”. It is the economic centre of Tanzania and used to be the capital city until 1974 when it was moved to Dodoma.
Dar Es Salaam remains a bustling city, but its biggest draw card for me is that it provided a gateway to the Zanzibar Archipelago.

The group enjoying beach time

Zanzibar Archipelago

The Zanzibar Archipelago is in the Indian Ocean, 1.5 hours by ferry from Dar Es Salaam. Amongst twenty or so islands, there are two main islands Zanzibar and Pemba. Despite it being part of Tanzania it has its own entry requirements and passport checks.

The streets of Stone TownThe Zanzibar Archipelago is home to 1.3million people, 99% of whom are Muslim. Quite extreme Muslim, and if you plan to visit as a female you must ensure appropriate clothing. Cover your arms to the elbows and legs past the knees. Even as recently as a couple of years ago women have been stoned for inappropriate dress.

Stone town, built in the 1830s by the sultan of Oman, is the capital of Zanzibar. Between 1804 and 1964 Zanzibar was ruled by twelve sultans until the Zanzibar revolution when they demanded independence from the Arabs and chose to join the Tanzanian Republic.

Stone Town

Stone Town earned its name by the construction of the buildings. The coral stone from the ocean was used as a building material. Based on the towns unique construction and its history, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage listed site in 2001.

Sculpture representing the slave market in Stone TownOne of the most notable historic aspects of Stone Town was its slave trade. Africa had a large slave trade, slaves from the West were traded to America and slaves from the East were traded through the spice markets in Stone Town to Asia. The slave trade was officially stopped in 1873, but was continued in secret until 1907. Two million slaves were traded over 400 years, and many more would have died or been killed before making it to the slave markets. A very sad history.

Spice Tour

Eating a fresh coconutPart way between Stone Town and Nungwi, we stopped by a spice farm for a tour. We learned a little bit about some of the spices grown on the island and the purposes they had in both cooking and medicine. We also had the opportunity to watch a coconut tree climbing demonstration, as well as enjoy some fresh young coconuts to drink and eat.

As a group we didn’t think the spice tour was run in a particularly professional manner and didn’t particularly enjoy it, and we were also unhappy that every person on site asked us for a tip though they did little to nothing to earn one.

Nungwi

Our boat for the snorkelling tripOn the northern coast of Zanzibar is the quiet little beach town of Nungwi. When you head to Zanzibar for your beach getaway, this is the place to be. Crisp white sand, crystal clear blue waters and bright, hot sunshine.

It is a great place to relax on the beach or by the pool. The more adventurous can book snorkelling or scuba diving excursions.

A fish swimming in the reefWith a group of eleven of us we booked places on a traditional sailing boat for a full day snorkelling trip to the island of Mnemba. We enjoyed the sun and views for the trip out and back. Dropping anchor just off the coast of the island we leapt into the clean, cool water. The snorkelling there was lovely, with live coral and a large variety of colourful fish in all shapes and sizes.
Before heading back to Nungwi we stopped at a beach for some lunch with freshly cooked fish, rice and a local tomato/vegetable sauce.
The full day snorkelling trip included drinking water, lunch and snorkelling equipment at a cost of USD$25.

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Serengeti National Park & Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania

I flew into Nairobi, Kenya to join a 3 week overlanding tour of East Africa with the tour operator Nomad Tours South Africa, booked through Peri Peri Reizen. The guides Nika, TK and Evans introduced themselves and set a friendly and fun tone for the tour. They made introductions and then bundled us into our overland truck (the truck is named Morrison) and set off for Arusha in Tanzania. Arusha is the gateway to Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro  Crater & Mount Kilimanjaro. We spent two nights in Arusha, one before and one after our jeep  safari.

Elephant CrossingRun by local operator Tanzania Experiences, we headed off to the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater for a four day/three night jeep safari. The jeep safari was an additional excursion on top of the tour and cost approximately USD$560.

The safari was spent almost entirely in the jeep for two reasons, firstly the distances are huge so there is a great deal of time spent in transit between locations, secondly the parks are full of amazing, but very dangerous animals, so seeing them is done in the form of a game drive.

We did three game drives in the Serengeti National Park and one in the Ngorongoro Crater.

Serengeti National Park

The name ‘Serengeti’ means Endless Plain and accurately reflects the size, 14762 square kilometres, and appearance of the park. It is the second largest national park in Tanzania. Despite is being called a plain, the landscape is broken up with rivers, lakes, hills, rocky outcropping a and trees. This can make it challenging for spotting animals, but does provide them a varied environment with many shady areas under which they can escape the heat of the day.

Lioness taking a restOur driver Rashid was absolutely brilliant on spotting wildlife and communicating with other drivers on where to find certain animals. He was very knowledgeable on breeds, facts, and statistics about the animals and shared the information with us in a fun and informative manner, sometimes pop quiz style.

We were incredibly lucky to see four of “The Big Five” numerous times in the park: Leopards, Elephants, Lions and Buffalo. The fifth animal in the big five is the Rhinoceros, which we saw in the Ngorongoro Crater.

Giraffe EatingWe also saw a Cheetah, Giraffes, Zebra, Topis, Impalas, Thomson Gazelles, Grant’s Gazelles, Wildebeest, Hippopotamus’, Black-backed Jackals, Hyraxes, Hartebeest, Warthogs, Hyena, Baboons, Ostriches and loads of different types of birds.

The best times to see the animals are in the cooler parts of the day, early morning and late afternoon. Even then many, such as the large cats, are usually found hiding in shady places in tree branches or under trees.

A cheetah looking for preyAs you can appreciate with any experience involving wildlife spotting, it is all about luck. I think we were incredibly lucky to have seen all of the animals that we did. Our biggest stroke of luck was in seeing a cheetah, the most solitary and reclusive of all the big cats. The cheetah was hanging out in the shade under a tree. We sat and watched it for some time, it got up and moved to another shady spot and then another. While we didn’t get to see a chase, we were thoroughly grateful to see the cat both sitting, standing and walking. An interesting piece of information about the cheetah – it differs from all the other big cats as it doesn’t climb trees due to the fact that it does by have retractable claws. If it were to climb a tree and get a claw stuck and damaged it would limit its ability to hunt effectively and most likely result in death.

Accommodation

Our tour guides put up tents for us in a campsite, Seronera Campsite.

The facilities provided were minimal but sufficient and there was no electricity.  I was a little surprised at the lack of protection against the wild here, but I guess that’s part of the thrill of being in a national park in Africa. After dark it was up to you to be vigilant and scan the darkness for eyes with your head torch.

The first night we heard Hyenas, Lions and a Leopard. The second night, even before going to bed, the camp was surrounded by Hyenas – animals which are thankfully scavengers. The first morning we had baboons rummaging through the trash can in the middle of the camp and the second morning buffalo were hanging around the outer edges of the site. These experiences were equal parts terrifying and exciting!

Sunset at our Serengeti Campsite

 

Ngorongoro Crater

Yawning HippopotamusThe Ngorongoro Crater is a UNESCO World Heritage listed site, that is a famous natural wonder. The rim to the crater floor varies in height from 400-610metres and is quite a deep descent. The crater floor is 19km wide and covers an area of 264 square kilometres.

ZebrasA pre-dawn wake up call had us descending into the crater as the sun was rising. The landscape was much flatter, greener and had fewer (almost no) trees, this made animal spotting a little bit easier.

A Black Rhinoceros in the distanceIn addition to the animals we saw in the Serengeti, we also saw Black Rhinoceros’, Bat-Eared Foxes, Golden Jackals and Elands on the crater floor.

The animal that we considered to be the specialty of Ngorongoro was the Black Rhinoceros. It is an animal close to extinction, with a current population estimated at around 400. Of the total population, approximately 15 are resident in the crater, and despite only being able to see them from a huge distance, we were lucky enough to see six of them.

Accommodation

Ngorongoro Crater CampsiteThe campsite at Ngorongoro Crater, Simba Campsite, was on the crater rim and had a reasonable view put towards the crater floor. This was a larger campsite than the Serengeti and had better facilities, including electricity, hot showers and armed security patrolling the site.

Maasai Village

Maasai Village WelcomeIn transit between the Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Crater, we stopped to visit a Maasai Village, for USD$10 per person.

The Maasai of the village welcomed us outside their gates with a traditional welcome ceremony of chanting and dancing/jumping.

Once we were then invited in to the village where the men and women separated and showed us a little more of their traditional dancing/jumping, also inviting us to join in. It was actually really quite fun.

We were then given a tour of the village, including the livestock pen, the school and a home.

School children in a Maasai VillageThe life of the Maasai centers around their livestock and their village construction reflects this. In the center of the village is a circular pen where livestock are kept overnight. During the day the livestock are herded around the countryside. The houses are all built in a circle around the livestock pen and facing it, but with a four to five meter gap between. The houses are constructed from Acacia trees, cow dung and urine. It’s not the most watertight construction, so when it rains they pull a plastic tarpaulin over each home. The men of the village may have multiple wives, and for each family there is one home (so one man might have a few homes).

Interestingly, the school building we visited was outside of both of these circles. On questioning I was told that it is because the school is only used for an hour or two during the day for children who aren’t yet old enough to go to proper school, and that day time is safe.

Buying handmade jewellery from the MaasaiTo end the tour we were asked to visit the marketplace of each of the families. Around the circle between the livestock pen and the houses were small ‘shops’ from each family to sell their beaded jewellery and handcrafts. Their prices were exorbitant, but by spending inside their community it is nice to choose products that are handmade by their creator with the knowledge that the money goes directly to the community without a store taking commission. It is a very touristic setup, but nonetheless fascinating. On my way back to the bus a lovely gentleman advised me, with eager eyes, that he had one black wife, but would also like to have a white wife…

Toilets

Toilets in East Africa, particularly an overlanding trip, deserve a special mention. You will find three kinds of toilet in East Africa: a normal western toilet, a squat toilet and a bush toilet. Firstly you can’t assume for any of these that there will be toilet paper, so always carry a roll in your backpack.

The Western Toilet

Often, but not always, when you find a western toilet it’s in a tourist destination that’s maybe a bit more up-scale. They often have a toilet seat and are often quite clean.

The Squat Toilet

The squat toilet is pretty common around East Africa. Unfortunately they are often quite dirty and smelly, mostly just because westerners are unfamiliar with how to use them, and finding one that is dirty and smelly is not conducive to wanting to give something new a try. Thought they are much more hygienic than a standard western toilet since you actually don’t touch anything.

The Bush Toilet

The bush toilet can be found literally anywhere and it’s more hygienic than the western or squat toilet. You simply squat behind a bush, tree or even a car. It’s actually rather hilarious when the truck pulls over, everyone gets out and all you can see are girls heads peeking out over the tall grasses on the roadside as everyone squats (you will need to put your modesty aside for this excursion). 

The rule of thumb is that any paper you use should be put in the trash can, not thrown on the ground and poop should be buried (personally I’m happy to do a bush wee, but I would personally wait for the nearest western convenience for any pooping)

Medical Advice

First and foremost, consult a travel GP before heading to East Africa. Two things I know as a fact – you must have your Yellow Fever vaccination and take Malaria prevention tablets (and use really good bug spray with a high percentage of DEET). My vaccination record was checked for Yellow Fever at the border when I transited from Kenya to Tanzania.

The last time I checked you also require up to date vaccinations for Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B and Tetanus.

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Nazareth, Israel

Fauzi Azar InnI headed to Nazareth with the intention of doing a day tour out to the Sea of Galilee and Golan Heights, which was unfortunately cancelled after I arrived in Nazareth. Determined to make the most of it, I started off by joining in a free walking tour of the city run by the hostel. This tour started with a history of the building.

The Fauzi Azar Inn is an Ottoman style family home built the 1830s. It is a beautiful home with stunning features of Turkish Marble and Cedar. One of the treasures of the home are it’s painted ceilings. Between 1860 to 1870 three rooms had their ceilings painted in floral decorative patterns, which remain today.

In 1948 the living conditions in Nazareth become very difficult and the majority of the Azar family fled, except Fauzi Azar, the grandfather of the current manager, Suraida.

Painted ceiling in the Fauzi Azar InnIn 1980, in the cold winter a fire began accidentally in the living space. It was caused by a spillage of kerosene on refilling the heater. A carpet began to burn and in an attempt to save the home, Fauzi grabbed the carpet and ran outside with it. The house was saved but in the process Fauzi was badly burned, and after some time in hospital the burns cost him his life.

The home, and the vast majority of Nazareth was abandoned, left to ruin. The drug dealers moved into the area and it was for some time, an undesirable region to venture into.

In 2005 the Azar family entered into an agreement to restore the home and convert it into a guesthouse. While Nazareth is still a quiet place for tourism, the Fauzi Azar Inn is going really well and has won awards in Best Accommodation for Local Communities, and numerous TripAdvisor awards. It has a fantastic reputation and in my opinion it is an absolute pleasure to be welcomed into this home and have the family share the history with you.

Abu Ashraf in his pancake restaurant
Abu Ashraf in his pancake restaurant

After Suraida’s introduction to the property, we began a tour of the town with Luma. Most walking tours go to each of the main sites in the city, while Luma pointed them out, the tour was more about getting to know the locals and the history of the city.

It was fabulous to visit buildings which were hundreds of years old, and meet locals whose families had run businesses in these buildings for a hundred years or more.

A famous 300 year old restaurant in Dewan Al Saraya. All the food is cooked fresh daily by Abu Ashraf, he is famous for the Katayef that he makes. One is a savoury type pancake stuffed with goat’s cheese, the other is sweet, stuffed with a blend of nuts and cinnamon.

Abu Salem Coffeeshop
Abu Salem Coffeeshop

Another such place is the Abu Salem Coffeeshop. The building is 300 years old and the family business has been operating for 100 years. Amongst the standard drinks on offer, they make a delicious cinnamon hot drink with a sprinkling of crushed walnuts on top.

Cinnamon hot drink from Abu Salem CoffeeshopAnother of the sites we stopped by was an ancient Arab cemetary, here we learned a little bit about the Arab culture around death. When someone dies they need to be buried as soon as possible. The coffin for the body is only used for transporting the body from the home to the cemetery. The body is buried in a cotton sheet wrapping. All of the graves have two stones, one at either end of the grave, one has the details of the person and the other has a prayer.

We also visited places to learn about the  traditional clothing, traditional marriage rituals, and also local spices from the area.

Colourful artwork in the Church of the Annunciation
Colourful artwork in the Church of the Annunciation

Beyond the local stories and visits, the city has some sights to visit. These include the White Mosque, Mary’s Well, The Church of Annunciation and the Basilica of the Annunciation.

I thought both Mary’s Well and the White Mosque were a little disappointing. However, I really enjoyed visiting the church and basilica. They were both stunning in completely different ways.

The Basilica of the Annunciation is where the Christians believe that the Angel appeared to Mary to tell her she would have child. Personally I am a bit confused as to why there is a Church of the Annunciation and a Basilica of the Annunciation. Are they claiming to be the place of this biblical event, at opposite ends of the city?

Stained glass windows in the Basilica of the Annunciation
Stained glass windows in the Basilica of the Annunciation

The old city is nice to wander through and is like an Arabic souq, many narrow alleys with market stalls. In one of these is the Synagogue Church, where Jesus went to pray and teach. I Visited from teh outside, but didn’t make it back there to visit inside.

Two other sites I would have liked to visit but didn’t, were the: Orthodox Caves which were closed; and the Cactus Ancient Bath House which cost 60NIS to visit, I found this too expensive.

Unfortunately Nazareth is a very small, quiet town. It was nice to visit, but a full day was plenty. While I wouldn’t recommend visiting for a long time, I would still recommend visiting. Despite how it may be presented in the media, it is a safe place to visit and the people are so friendly. It would be great to see tourists return to Nazareth to support the local people.

The Nitty Gritty

Accommodation

I stayed at the Fauzi Azar Inn, which got numerous glowing reviews both online and from locals. A bed in the 6-bed female dorm costs 105NIS per night. The cost includes linen, a towel, breakfast and all day tea/coffee. The location is good and it is only a short walk to everything.

Transport

To get from Jerusalem to Nazareth you can take a bus via Haifa or there is one bus that travels direct. The trip takes approximately 3 hours.

I took the 955 from Jerusalem Central Bus Station to Nazareth. The bus stops at several spots along the main street of Nazareth and I had no idea where to get off. After asking about the stops and advising which hotel I was going to, the bus driver stopped at the closest stop to my hotel and told me when to get off.

To get from Nazareth to Tel Aviv there are limited bus options and they are slow, taking between 2-3 hours. It’s also quite walk to the bus station from the hostel.

I was advised to take a Sherut Taxi, which cost 32NIS, rather than the 37NIS bus trip. The Sherut Taxi is a shared taxi, they leave when they are full and often make several stops along the way.
I arrived at the Taxi stop 10 minutes before the first Sherut was due to leave. I waited 30 minutes in total until we had enough people to go. Thankfully pretty much all passengers were headed to Tel Aviv and despite a few stops along the way, we arrived within 1.5 hours.

As transit to and from Nazareth is reasonably limited, the Fauzi Azar Inn and Abraham Hostels are planning to implement a shuttle service between Jerusalem, Tel Aviv and Nazareth starting mid-March 2016.

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